Notes From The Platform
There’s an art to catching trains in India.
Strolling past a group of exhausted backpackers who’ve been waiting for hours, sunburnt, confused, arguing over lost paper tickets, while you show up five minutes before departure, cold water in one hand. A hot paper bag of samosas in the other. Fresh-faced. Unbothered. A quiet level of smugness reserved for the veterans.
But it wasn’t always like this for me.
The first time I tried, I spent twelve hours on the wrong platform waiting for train 14377, only to be told, “it should come today.” When it finally arrived, I sprinted up and down a platform the length of a runway trying to find my carriage, eventually deciding to just jump on and wade through thin carriages, apologising to anyone I knocked over, like the embarrassing Western oaf I am.
Meanwhile, the locals just stepped on calmly, like all of this was completely normal.
Turns out, it is. There’s a system.
So to save you the same slow, sweaty learning curve, here’s the simple way to do Indian trains properly.
The Secret
Unfortunately, there’s no romantic secret. It’s a little boring and simple.
You need to download the apps.
There’s nothing cinematic about standing on a platform staring at your phone, but it sure beats wading through crowds of angry locals, pushing, yelling, one sweaty mess of chaos, all to try and buy a ticket for what you think might be your train.
Make your life easier. Get the apps. And there are two I’d recommend.
One to book the train (“IRCTC Rail Connect”) and one to tell you when it actually arrives (“Where Is My Train”). That’s it.
These will improve your experience dramatically, but there’s a lot of jargon to figure out before you can really master them.
Decoding The Jargon
When you book, you’ll see stuff like: WL 18 — 62%
Looks technical. It’s not. In simple terms, it means: maybe you’ve got a seat, maybe you don’t. Good luck.
Here’s my jargon-for-dummies explainer:
Confirmed = you’re fine
RAC = you’ll squeeze in somewhere
Waitlist (WL) = it’s a gamble
% chance = the odds it becomes confirmed
The % chance can be confusing and really only shows up in 3rd, 2nd, and 1st class carriages, because there are limited seats. But here’s what it actually means:
WL 18 — 62% If you book this ticket, you’re number 18 in the queue, and they estimate there’s a 62% chance it’ll become confirmed.
God knows why they do this, but the word from other travellers is that they always have to reserve a certain number of seats for the military and people of “high importance.” Who knows. Who cares?
Here’s my rule:
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Above 50% chance, take the risk.
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Below 50%, figure something else out.
And if you actually need to be somewhere, just book “confirmed” and save yourself the stress.
Carriage Hierarchy
Your carriage choice is typically what makes or breaks the journey.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m a huge ambassador for sleeper and seated carriages, but I’m also a big ambassador for picking your battles.
Here’s how I’d break down the carriages:
3AC / 2AC / 1AC
Air con. Beds. Sheets. Space to breathe. You sleep. You wake up human.
Long journeys? Book these and don’t overthink it.
These are all completely fine. Comfortable, calm, and still cheap enough that it’s not worth suffering to save a few quid.
Sleeper / Seated
Open windows. Fans. Loud. Sweaty. Zero personal space. Fun, but in a chaotic way.
"Everyone should do it at least once. It’s the full India experience. Just maybe not for a sixteen-hour overnight when you actually need sleep.
Save it for a shorter hop when you’re feeling relaxed and curious."
A few lessons from the road.
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You’ll never regret carrying a spare toilet roll.
You will absolutely regret not having one. -
It doesn’t matter if your ticket says bottom bunk. If someone older, smaller, or travelling with a kid needs it more, it’s theirs. Just assume you’re top bunk. Being stubborn about it is the fastest way to get on everyone’s nerves.
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Bring small notes. Chai, samosas, vada pav are all pennies. Don’t be the person apologising for only having a ₹500 note at 5am.
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Show up with snacks and water. Sometimes there’s great food. Sometimes there’s nothing. You’ll never regret a couple of bananas and a big bottle of water in your bag.
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Keep your phone charged and carry a power bank. Delays are normal, and at some point you’ll be sitting on a dark platform relying on the “Where Is My Train” app.
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And honestly, a hard one to write, but it feels important. I wouldn’t recommend sleeper or seated carriages solo at night for women. They’re safe enough, just crowded and unpredictable. AC classes are calmer, enclosed, and worth the extra few quid for peace of mind.
Little stuff. Big difference.
A final word.
In a world where trains are losing all sense of character, India remains a beacon of authenticity. Hang out of the door, enjoy a chai with some locals, kick back on your three-tier bunk bed and read chapter after chapter. There’s something totally magic about locking into a 16-hour ride. Learning a few simple techniques to navigate it stress-free lets you focus purely on the journey.
It might sound cliché, or a little cringe, but it was some of the best thinking time of my life. Clear visions, small epiphanies, and some of the most authentic interactions I’ve ever had with locals.
So learn the art, enjoy the journey, and thank me later.
Words & Images: Charlie Morgan (@charlieharrymorgan)